In search of the light : "Couleur locale" in Senegal
After our eventful visit of the Joal-Fadiouth fishing activities we got back into our giant truck to head for the Siné Saloum delta. Before we came to Senegal, I had been trying to plot the route to the delta with the intention to rent a car myself to drive there.
Unfortunately, there are no real detailed maps available – at least I couldn’t find any. Using online maps and routeplanners, I found it rather odd that none of those could find me a route. Now, underway in the back of our truck, I found out why: there wasn’t any. Or rather, you can find a route, but don’t count on roads. All of a sudden the 6×6 drive was completely justified.
Truck stop © Hans Couwenbergh Photography
|
It was a special experience, driving through kilometers of savannah-like land and over large salt plains. Every once in a while a lonely shepherd appeared or a solitary hut could be seen. Occasionally a small village would prove that people do live here. Primitive or not, football here is also very popular with the children as even the smallest villages have some kind of football field. Occasionally, we would see a full village worth of youngsters in action; our passing would each time create a short time-out: the yellow truck was greeted time and time again with great enthusiasm. |
|
Again, it proved useful to have a local guide with us. He explained that it was much better to support the local people with useful gifts rather than money. So we halted and went shopping in the local “boutique”. Bread, flower, salt, cookies, notebooks and pencils were on the shopping list… and plenty of hankies for Sonia who suffered from an allergy.
So, ready for a courtesy visit and we would not come empty-handed!
Shopping for the right gift © Hans Couwenbergh Photography
Arriving at the village, we found out that the family that would welcome us unfortunately could not see us because of the illness of the madre familias. Luckily, the friendly neighbours invited us into their ‘living circle’. Every family lives in a kind of corral, with several huts: men and women have separate huts (a husband can have several concubines), there is a kind of granary, a kind of “kitchen” and of course some huts for the animals.
Home © Hans Couwenbergh Photography
Young girl at work processing peanuts The ‘gazelles’ in the village
© Hans Couwenbergh Photography
The village people do speak French – also the language of education in Senegal – but amongst each other they speak one of the 9 or 10 local tribal languages. They are open, friendly people, although some have learned that tourists may mean income. The villagers tell us that news will spread quickly that tourists are visiting, and that soon a market with all kinds of things for sale will form. We are a bit surprised as there are not that many people in the village. But we’re told that “specialized” sales people will come to the village soon, pretending they belong there, and of course trying to sell all kinds of merchandise. The guide acknowledges.
|
A bit later, we see the women at work. It looks like heavy duty labour, and when we ask the ladies where the men are, the guide chuckles and says: “les gazelles font le boulot, les gazous font dodo”. So women our called gazelles, not only flattering but very appropriate. The expression of the guide is less so, meaning basically that the women do the work, the men sleep. One of our friends sees this as an opportunity to show he is a ‘new’ man, willing to help out in the daily domestic work. What an embarrasment when he discovers that this is real hard work, and he can simply not keep up with the tempo of the ‘gazelles’! |
Think before giving this a try © Hans Couwenbergh Photography |
Back at the truck to continue our journey, as predicted we find an out-of-the-blue set up market around our vehicle. Women are competing to show us their merchandise, and a single friendly word triggers hugs and even kisses – and what would we like to buy? It all feels fake, and it is. When I walk away a bit, I see a bit further, hidden behind some huts, the husbands waiting by their cars. So that’s how they got here so quickly.Time to move on.
|
After a brief visit to a local school – this is where we leave the notebooks and pencils with the teacher – we finally drive to the Siné Saloum delta, and get aboard a real “Pirogue”. We’re told that the boat can carry 35 people, but with the 20 people on board the thing seems already seriously overloaded to me. Buckets lie in the middle, and when few minutes from shore, we quickly experience that it is wise to use them every so often – to get the water out. |
At school: not only education, but also a good meal! © Hans Couwenbergh Photography |
Halfway our tour we visit a small village where we get a grilled meal with rice. We’re eating fish I’m told, but it actually tastes more like chicken – very good. Time to go back to our fancy resort. It is silent in the truck when we drive back – making one more stop for yet another holy baobab. But most stay in the truck – it has been a very full day, and most of us are contemplating on what we we have seen and experienced today.
Some Baobabs are real large; others huge! © Hans Couwenbergh Photography
People do not live the easy life in Senegal. Population is growing quicker than the BBP. Health care is minimal and health insurance not existing. Still, people seem to fairly happy. They appear to at least appreciate much more the small things in life. And as soon as there is some music, there must be dancing and shaking! Quite an experience on this first Africa trip!
Hans Couwenbergh is a food and travel loving photographer. Snapping away, he tells you all about the stories behind his photographs. Check out his website and connect with him on Facebook.
(www.wonderfulwanderings.com)